Winter Safety
Wearing lots of clothes in the cold and removing them layer by layer as you get warm up with activity is an age-old idea. With modern garments, this system gives you a versatile, thermally-efficient, and convenient way of dressing for all outdoor activities. By applying the layering approach you'll find that the clothing you put together for your camping trip will serve you in other seasons as well.
Clothing is classified in three layering categories (the three "W's"), as
follows:
The Wicking Layer keeps a comfortable climate next to your skin by wicking away
sweat.
The Warmth Layer absorbs moisture and provides insulation.
The Wind Layer protects against wind, snow and sun.
Here is a checklist describing the functions of each layer of clothing you'll
need.
Wicking Layer
One synthetic long underwear top
One synthetic long underwear bottom
An extra set of each (not essential but recommended)
Function: While the long underwear layer provides some insulation, its primary
function in winter activities is to draw perspired moisture away from the skin
to prevent chilling. Wet skin loses heat 26 times faster than dry skin. If you
are active and perspiring, the new synthetic fibers like polypropylene,
Thermastat, Duofold, Capilene keep your skin far drier than absorbent natural
materials like cotton, wool or silk. Rather than absorbing moisture, synthetic
fibers work by repelling water. They actually wick the water towards the
exterior where it can dissipate in other clothing layers and evaporate.
Warmth Layer
One thin insulating top (i.e., fleece shirt, sweater)
One thick insulating top (i.e., fleece anorak warm hooded jacket)
One pair insulating pants
One insulated vest (not essential but recommended, particularly for camping trips)
Function: Warmth results from trapping body-warmed air and keeping it from
swirling around to prevent heat from escaping. This layer should have ample
fabric loft and the cut should be roomy to hold more body-warmed air. For
active use, the reliability of an insulation when damp is especially important.
In this regard, synthetics are superior to their natural counterparts because
they retain more loft and insulation while absorbing less water. Duck and goose
down is virtually useless when damp. And because half or more of your body heat
can be lost through your head, it's best if your thick insulating top includes
a hood. An insulated vest offers an extra edge of torso warmth and is easy to
stow -- an oversized one is ideal because you can slip it over your jacket for
rest stops and lunch breaks.
Thin insulating top options include synthetic fleece sweater or shirt,
turtleneck with zippered collar, wool shirt, light V-neck wool or wool blend
sweater, polyester pile pullover. Thick top options include long, (preferably
hooded) parka or pullover made of thick polyester pile or nylon fleece, or
having synthetic insulation like Quallofil, Hollofil or Polarguard. For your
legs, choose thick polyester pile or heavy wool pants, or pants insulated with
synthetic batting. (Avoid cotton tops and cotton pants like jeans, corduroys
and khakis as they hold moisture and feel clammy in the cold.)
Wind Layer
One windshell jacket
One pair windshell pants
Function: A shell may be your most important garment in the layering system.
Outer shells are designed to protect you from wind, snow and even sun.
Furthermore, windshells can add up to 25 degrees of warmth in calm weather and
twice that in windy weather. Choose a long, hooded lightweight jacket or
pullover made of 60/40 cloth, Supplex, Sierra cloth, or other breathable nylon
or polyester blends. Three basic types of cloth are used in constructing
shells;
Cloth that is windproof but not waterproof, thus allowing maximum evaporation
of perspired moisture (uncoated nylon or nylon/cotton blends). This choice is
the best for winter use.
Cloth that is windproof and waterproof but allows no evaporation (rubberized
rain coats, urethane coated nylon). Unbreathable rain jackets are unacceptable
for winter use. Unsure about you have? Put your mouth against the fabric to see
if you can force any air through it.
Cloth that is both windproof and waterproof but allows some evaporation through
microscopic pores (Gore-Tex, Entrant and similar fabrics). They work well if
rate of perspiration is low and if outside temperature is above freezing. Below
freezing the pores tend to clog with frost. They are acceptable, though not
ideal, for winter use.
Hand Wear
One or more pairs insulating mittens
One or two pairs shell mittens
One or two pairs liner gloves (not essential but recommended, especially for camping)
Function: Again the layering system applies. A tight-fitting, thin liner glove
wicks away moisture and allows you full dexterity when you need to work with
mittens off. Thick mittens serve as the insulating layer. Over that you need a
water resistant shell. Long cuffs help seal out the wind. Choose one or two
pairs Thermax or polypropylene liner gloves plus warm mitts made of wool,
wool/nylon blend, Polar Plus or other polyester pile. Overmitts made of leather
(called "choppers") are the most durable for camping trips though nylon shells
(made of Supplex or Cordura) are lighter. Mittens that combine insulation and
shell in one, such as snowmobile mitts, also work but are more difficult to
dry.
Boots (this applies for extremely cold weather)
Snow boots with removable liners
One extra pair of liners (for camping trips)
Insulated camp booties (for evening use on camping trips)
Function: Don't skimp here. Cold feet on the trail will cause a dip in your fun
meter faster than anything else. 'Pac boots' with rubber soles and leather or
Cordura nylon uppers are best. Avoid boots with rubberized uppers (they don't
breath) and steel shanks (the metal tends to conduct heat away unless the soles
are specially insulated). Removable liners are essential (the ones with
built-in liners can't be dried). Foam liners dry faster than felt ones.
Removable foam insoles add an extra edge of warmth. Make sure the fit of the
boot and liners is not tight - you should be able to wiggle your toes with
ease. We recommend wearing one pair liner socks and two pairs insulating socks
when you're getting fitted for boots. Tight boots mean cold feet. Choose
LaCrosse, Sorel, Timberland, Boundary or other quality snow boots with rubber
soles and lowers, leather or breathable nylon uppers, removable felt or foam
liners and rated to at least -40.
Inevitably, your boots and liners will become dampened by perspiration during
the day on a Wintergreen trip and must be dried each evening. That's why --for
camping trips-- we also recommend bringing lightweight camp booties insulated
with Polarguard, Quallofil, or down (available through most camping stores).
They're not essential but they sure make your feet sing after a day on the
trail.
Socks
2 or more pairs light liner socks
2 or more pairs thick insulating socks
Function: The layering system applies here as well. Synthetic liner socks wick
perspired moisture away from your feet while heavy socks provide insulation.
Choose Thermax, polypropylene or Olefin liner socks along with polyester, wool
or wool/nylon hunting socks
Headwear
One lightweight ski hat
One warm hat or balaclava (an open face mask)
Neck gaiter (not essential but wonderfully versatile for keeping neck & face warm)
Function: Over half of your body heat can be lost through your head. Choose a
lightweight wool, wool blend, polypropylene or Thermax ski hat; thick
insulating hat, cap or mask. Optional headwear items that you may choose to
bring include a scarf, ear muffs, neck gaiter and ear warmers.
Jackson, WY Weather
Currently Outside 77FScattered clouds. Pleasantly warm. |
